Episode 8: Ornös krog

At some point, you have to take a Waxholms boat out a little farther into Stockholms archipelago, in Swedish skärgården (skerry garden?). There are thousands of islands and rocky skär in the skärgården, only some of which can be reached with the big Waxholms boats. One island, not too far away, is Ornö. Not far from the little church on the island is Ornö krog, which has great seafood. If you want to spend more time in the archipelago, you can always buy a Båtluffar ticket and travel on the boats as much as you want for a few days!

Episode 7: fjäderholmarnas krog

Fjäderholmarnas krog is one of those places we like to go when we have guests or want to wear fancy pants. It's not REALLY out in the archipelago, but you have to take about a 45 min boat ride to get there. The place is beautiful, the food is pretty great, it's not absurdly expensive, and you get to watch the bajillion story ferries from Finland pull in.

Episode 6: Katarinavägen

Anyone who visits Stockholm should take a walk up Katarinavägen via Slussen. It offers one of the best views of Gamla Stan! Voila:
At the top of the hill is Hermans, a vegetarian restaurant with outdoor seating (even hammocks!). To be honest, I've never actually eaten there, but it looks pretty fantastic, and, again, the view! If you don't feel like walking, you could take Katarina hissen (you'll need some spare change to pay) to Gondolen, a fancy French place, and get a drink in their bar, or just walk down the gangway and head to the only other decent beer garden in town,Mosebacke. It can get pretty crowded on summer evenings and weekends, but it's worth it! Right next door is Södra Teatern and Kägelbanan, which usually have decent medium to largish shows -- for instance, we've seen the likes of Arthur Lee (RIP) and Bembeya Jazz there. It's a big venue for "world music" -- friggin hippy Swedes.

Episode 5: Back A Yard

Back a yard is a pretty amusing little Jamaican place on Södermalm, the southern island where most hipsters are "contained." Back-A-Yard has some pretty great jerk chicken and a nice selection of rum. Last time we were there, Mr. Callertun, a.k.a Roger Moore, identified Sweden's most important reggae star digging into a goat curry at the adjacent table. Of course, he also pointed out that nobody really cares who Sweden's most important reggae star is -- he just looked like another white fisherman to me. They also have supersized Red Stripes, which I never knew existed!

Episode 4: Nystekt strömming

Okay, I love herring. Baltic herring. Pickled. Fried. Fried then pickled. In mustard, or dill, or cream sauce, or chili sauce or curry. I don't care. I love it. In fact, herring may be the real reason why I moved to Sweden. Sure, I married a Swede. BUT, did I marry her for her soul, or her herring? In any case, Nystekt Strömming, located right in front of Stockholms Stadmuseum, is simply amazing. It's cheap, about 70 SEK, and it comes with mashed potatoes and pickles and other sides. The Stadsmuseum has great exhibits, is free, and has a decent gift store (where you can pick up your obligatory Stomatol toothpaste sign snow globe).

Episode 3: Tegelhuset

Tegelhuset is a great little Czech-ish beer garden in Fatbursparken behind Medborgarplatsen. Although there are plenty of places to eat and drink outside in Stockholm (in fact, Swedes are so obsessed with the sun and being outside that they'll wrap themselves in blankets just to eat al fresco even when it's freezing), there aren't that many beer gardens, sadly -- despite the long history of German cultural influence on Sweden. This one is klein aber fein.

Episode 2: Cafe Järntorget

Located in Gamla Stan (at Järntorget, to be precise, which means you don't have to fight the throngs of tourists on Västerlånggatan to reach it, just cut in from Skeppsbron), Cafe Järntorget has our favorite ice cream, Lejonet and Björnen (the Lion and the Bear), and our favorite flavor -- Saffran Honung (Saffron Honey). Mmmmm. Swedes like to brag that they eat more ice cream per capita than any other country on the planet. That sounds more like an expression of Freudian wish fulfillment.

Episode 1: Bockholmen

In this week's episode, our dashing stars are ordered to investigate the mysterious island of Bockholmen. It's a bit off the beaten path, but there's a great restaurant, Bockholmen Hav & Restaurang, with a view of Lidingö bridge and Stockholm's "inner archipelago." In the role of Roger Moore, Rickard Callertun.